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Monday, April 25, 2011

First time out in 2011



What a fantastic way to start the season. Not a cloud in the sky and a toasty 14 degree C! Four of us set out to Two Tree Ledge via the RH slabs. We've been constantly improving on the route since it was initially set with the addition of a new belay station above the lone Birch tree and a couple of new hangars. Although there is still work to be done to make the route fun for everyone. The second pitch remains an easy trad pitch with decent protection, this pitch will get you to Two Tree Ledge. Pitch three has recently been added. This pitch starts by going left around the corner on to the main prow and traverses to the left and up. This is a great pitch with awesome exposure and is all bolted. Some of the hangars are a little difficult to find but believe me when I say that there's nothing more than 15 feet apart. The third pitch ends up at a set of anchors with a belay ring and a quick link and for the faint of heart this is a good place to turn around. With a 60 m rope you can rap to a ledge to the left of Two Tree and be safe. For those who want to continue, you must go up the crack about 15 feet, there is now a hangar to the right of the crack for obvious reasons once you get to this point. From this hangar you must go around to the left of this big block that looks like it could peal but have faith and go around this block and gain the face and you will see another set of anchors. One ring and one standard. These anchors were put in place to avoid the terrible rope drag going around the block. From there there is another hanger about 15 feet up on the roof. Once there, you traverse the roof using a crack where the face meets the roof, it's about a 15 foot traverse but it's very exposed and scarry, remember to bring a couple of big pieces of pro to put into the crack for protection up to 3". From there it leads into a open book crack, we intend to put another set of anchors here as well, again to avoid rope drag. From this position it is about 30-40 up easy but exposed climbing. This climb was first freed without bolts in 2007 by Laurie and Randy. When I look back now I can't believe we were so crazy!! It's way nicer and safer now. Enjoy.

Wednesday, October 27, 2010